An early Sunday morning bicycle ride through Harlem leads to sacredness, grace, astonishment, acknowledgment, gratitude, and smiles.
I found myself in Harlem this past Sunday morning, riding my bicycle around.
It was the first time I’d ever done it. I used to live in Harlem, but I never owned a bike then.
I was there with my bike on Sunday because I was in the middle of riding around the entire outer perimeter of the island of Manhattan. Also something I’d never done.
There’s one big bike path that goes all the way around the island — for about 33 miles — along the Hudson, Harlem, and East Rivers.
The path — called the Manhattan Waterfront Greenway — is a bikes-and-pedestrians-only route for most of its length, but it disconnects at certain places where it’s necessary to ride along surface streets.
That’s what happens when you get to Harlem.
I rode clockwise around the island, which means I came into Harlem from the North, along the old Harlem River Speedway, which is a stretch of the bike path that goes alongside the Harlem River between Dyckman Street and 155th Street.
I didn’t know exactly where the path would let out, but to my delight it was at 155th and Eighth Avenue, right in front of the Polo Grounds Towers. That’s where the old Polo Grounds ballpark — former home of the New York Yankees (until 1923) and the New York Giants (baseball and football) — once stood.
At this point there are no Manhattan Waterfront Greenway signs to be found, so I had no idea if I was still on the route.
This was great, I thought, because from there I could just ride down through different parts of Harlem until I eventually reached 122nd Street, where — going due East — I knew I could reconnect with the bikes-only portion of the route along the East River.
So that’s what I did.
Across the street from the Polo Grounds Towers is Holcombe Rucker Park, where playground basketball legends have battled since the 1950s in the Pro League, the Entertainer’s Basketball Classic, and the Elite 24.
At the southeast corner of 155th and Eighth is a parking lot that covers the spot where the “Mecca of Black Basketball” — the spacious ballroom known as the Manhattan Casino, later called the Rockland Palace — used to be. From the early 1910s through the mid-1920s, that’s where the country’s top African American basketball teams — such as the Alpha Physical Culture Club, the St. Christopher Club, Howard University, and the Monticello Athletic Association — played each other in front of crowds reaching 6,000 or more.
From there I cut over to Bradhurst Avenue, where I found the familiar Greenway signs and bikes-only path once again, and rode south alongside Jackie Robinson Park. Bradhurst turns into Edgdcombe Avenue, but instead of going all the way down as the route suggests, I took a left at 138th Street.
One block later, after crossing Eighth Avenue again, I found myself in the landmark historic district known as Strivers Row, which consists of beautiful townhouses built in the late 1800s that are named after the hard-working African Americans who aspired to live there.
It was early Sunday, so there was no traffic, and when I stopped pedaling to coast down the street slowly I was surrounded suddenly by a hushed gentle silence that felt timeless and sacred and tingly, like it was an honor to be there. And it was an honor. There’s something there, and it’s there whether people notice it or not. I thought to myself, how come I’ve never done this before? Why don’t they have a Harlem Bike Tour?
This aura was made more pronounced by the appearance of the old Renaissance Ballroom coming into view ahead of me on the corner of the next block. The Renaissance is one of old Harlem’s best-known landmarks (but, sadly, without official landmark status). Aside from being a famous dance- and entertainment hall, it’s also the former home court of the legendary New York Renaissance (a.k.a. “Rens”) professional basketball team, which played there from the 1920s through the 1940s.
When I got to the corner of 138th and Seventh Avenue, this is what I saw:
The Renaissance Ballroom in Harlem on a Sunday morning, with the spires of the Abyssinian Baptist Church visible in the background on the left,
midway down the block.
Were they waiting to get into a New York Rens game? I wish!
No. They were waiting to attend an authentic “gospel mass” at the neighboring Abyssinian Baptist Church.
What’s interesting is that these were tourists who had come from all over the world. I’ve been to Abyssinian for Sunday service before, but it’s been a while and I forgot about the lines that formed around the block.
I think that this form of tourism is a very good thing, not only for Harlem and for Abyssinian but also for the tourists, whose numbers were made up entirely of Caucasians and Asians. This fact is well-known throughout Harlem, especially by the enterprising street vendors who have set up there to sell beautiful African American themed arts and prints (seen against the wall of the ballroom in the photo above).
Yet, among the tourists, I couldn’t help but notice a certain level of obliviousness there too; a dimension of unconsciousness that was all the more obvious in contrast to my exquisite, graceful experience on the previous block.
I got off my bicycle and walked it across the street to get a closer look.
When I got to the sidewalk in front of the artwork, I stopped to allow a lone elderly African American gentleman to pass by in front of my bike. I could tell he had someplace to go. As he walked in front of me our eyes met, and he acknowledged the nicety through a brief twinkling connection. But I could tell he was slightly perturbed by all these people, so without missing a beat I said to him, with a smile, “If they only knew.”
That caused him to do a kind of double-take, over his shoulder, with an extra look of — all at once — astonishment, acknowledgment, and gratitude. Along with a wry smile. It was a familiar sort of a smile, filled with irony, reminiscent of the way John Isaacs — and other men of his generation — used to do that sometimes.
In that moment I knew that he knew that somebody knew … even if it wasn’t those people waiting in line.
Maybe I wanted to make sure of that, without making a big deal about it. Yes, that was definitely my intention. To make history now.
claude you have seen the wonders of harlem,usa-a place lwhich has some many wonderful stories of my life-my buddy earl (goose) powell were just speaking on how they have not finish the harlem portion of bike and running path sorry you didnot get to the st. nicholas houses –127th street/adam clayton powell blvd -home of the rucker tournament that started in 1950 now have touch base with some of legends there are other sports that have many persons who are legends of historical interest glad you made that trip…
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Claude I’m glad to be back blogging, I’m recovering from surgery as a result of “ballin”. This is powerful, reading this makes me want to go to Harlem, I was saying to myself if I only knew my way around there like you did. In the Bronx they had a Hip-Hop tour shuttle for tourist, it still might be active. But even more important that would be great to have shuttle of sorts for all players, and especially African American players. The torch seems to not get passed, and even stay lit, it’s in Harlem and this is significant as the musical artist there of that time as well. I know you’re passionate about the game, study the game, and live to enlighten those and shed light on the players before us who made way for the game. To you, it’s one thing to appreciate and embrace the heart & soul of the game back then, so much, that you feel you literally lived in that era. So when you see tourist going to church that’s blessed to know and needed. However, knowing the history and what took place makes for a richer experience to those who have no clue, they where the African-American experience of basketball derived from and has a lasting impression on them and their family members today. The look you and the older man exchanged was a look of something to be understood and not spoken of. Clearly it wasn’t church because people were going in, already but as an elderly African who probably lived some of those experiences was glad some one knew.
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Beautiful story and it’s inspired me to make this bike ride some day. (Is there a bike rental place nearby? I live on the West Coast.)
Love the ending with quick quip to the man walking by you. Very poetic.
Keep up the great work!
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Beautiful story Claude. Hat’s off to you for your journey and words. Very moving.
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Claude:
Thanks for sharing this wonderful story. Your words are always an inspiration and I appreciate all you do to perpetuate the memories of the NY Rens. The ballroom should be a the National Registry of Historic Places–a true cultural landmark.
Now if we could only figure out a way to watch the Rens play there again–like a movie or virtual reality experience–wouldn’t that be amazing, to recreate the entire atmosphere of a Rens game with all the sights and sounds–including the fans–at the peak of their power. That would be magical!
Cheers,
Blaise
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That was awesome. Felt like I was gliding alongside, and seeing it all for the first time. The historical account brought it alive beyond what was on the surface. And I also believe the old gentleman was simply grateful.
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Very nice story. This elderly African-American gentleman must have known the story; perhaps even watched a few games in that building back in the day.
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Thanks for sharing an excellent blog. I’m going to put some air into my 15 speed bicycle, ride across the GWB and cycle around Manhattan with the intention of breaking up my journey by having a bite at Wells.
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Claude, thanks for the story. I’ve been to NYC twice (one of my brothers lives in Congers, NY), but haven’t been through Harlem. Now the next time I’m in NYC, I’ll have to check it out — and maybe by bike.
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Claude,
This is so beautiful, and because time is short I will get right to the point. We (read as “us”) need to put together a concerted effort to make sure the bike path is completed in Harlem. We are in the very middle and heart of Manhattan. Many of us have bikes now and we would love to travel Harlem on our bikes. Secondly we need to see what needs to be done about restoring our Harlem landmarks. I am a Harlem native and for many years and as a historian I have literally wept at the condition of Harlem landmarks. I will commit right here to work with anyone that wants to see our history restored. We are the proverbial “THEY”, and we need to step up. I love this blog.
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Claude,
you truly are making history now, by taking us back through time with a current view. Your writing is majestic.
Pamela
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Oh my Claude, you have made me homesick for Harlem. I lived in the 5th Ave building of Lenox Terrace and your wonderful descriptive trek through Harlem took me back. When I lived in Harlem I never owned a bike either…makes me wish I had.
Love your blog Claude!
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Claude – what can I say ? You got me pretty tingly with this one. Great job- I know it’s from the heart. Talk to you soon.
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Hello Mr. Johnson,
Its been a long time since we have spoken. I am checking Jazmon’s emails for him and he mention that he was in contact with you. This was an adventure in which you were on. Thanks for sharing it with us. There are some people who will never get the chance to travel and people like you sharing their experiences give them a glance of what the other world is like.
Until then keep up your adventures, never know who you might run into.
Lori
Longview, Texas
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[...] http://blackfivesblog.com/?p=1939 [...]
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OK. So lets do this. We need a bike tour, walking tour, whatever tour but a tour, (especially native Harlemites) to see all of the basketball history, baseball history , music history , dance history, political history etc. What Claude doesn’t know I know and what I don’t know Claude knows. I say the 3rd Saturday in August. Where should we meet ?
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Thanks for this piece – heartfelt and moving.
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Lawrence thanks, and you are probably right. I think everyone in Harlem attended one thing or another inside that building once.
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Mack we oughta get some folks together to do a Harlem Bike Tour, or at least meet up at a pre-determined spot like Wells. Thanks!
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Carl, thanks, I will definitely be doing that again except next time I’ll skip the rest of the island and do more bike exploring in Uptown. You are right, there are just so many spots it’s not possible to see them all even in several trips.
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Thank you Trokon. Happy recovering and thanks for the kind words. I would definitely support a Harlem Basketball History Tour … by bike, or even a video version of it … maybe I’ll do one.
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Hey Tim, yes, they have bike rentals in various spots, particularly near Central Park on the East Side and West Side. Anybody know of one in Harlem? Maybe there’ll be a more organized tour by the time you make it out here. Thank you!
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John, thanks. Biking is great because you see things in a different way that you don’t see walking or driving. It’s kind of surreal in a certain way. I can see why so many people love to ride bicycles.
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Blaise thank you, have you seen this video of a Rens re-enactment we did once with Converse?
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Thank you Margie! Maybe you WILL be riding alongside one of these days on a Harlem Bike Tour if someone will help organize it! I’ll definitely support it where the rubber meets the road, so to speak. :-)
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Thanks Bob!
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That’s right Karen, they is we! :-)
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Thank you so much Pamela! What a classy thing to say! :-)
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Wow! Splendid! I would have loved to seen that live.
Kudos to all who were involved–
Blaise
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